I think i left the last blog on Sunday night, so off I go with Monday morning.
The day started off with the standard 6am rise, followed by breakfast. I haven´t talked about breakfast yet I don't think... Here breakfast is fairly similar to back home. There is cereal with milk, bread, jam, and cake. Cake for breakfast is a bit alien to me, but apparently it is like this across most of Europe as well so maybe the non-breakfast-caking Brits are in a minority in this one. Then, getting faster at the morning routine I was at Colégia São Luís early, making it in by ten to 7. We were making a trip to the Casa Convivencia homeless shelter, which has strong links with São Luís in two groups at half past 7 and half past 8, so there was just time to nip upstairs and re-touch a couple of my previous blogs.
The trip to the homeless shelter was certainly enligtening. I felt awkward right from the off in our large group, as if we were visiting a tourist attraction- it felt to me that the people in the shelter would think we were looking down on them, although I hold my fellow fellows in higher regard than that and am sure none of them were, I don´t think this would´ve been a nice feeling for the people in the shelter. On the flip side, this trip is all about us being prepared to move out of our comfort zones, and the shelter is used to visitors from São Luís, and there was one man who approached a few of us to talk speak in English about how he was an ex-university student but had still ended up on the streets. Similarly to England, it seems, people from all walks of life can end up on the bottom rung.
But despite my whinging, I think this was one of the most important visits we´ve had in São Paulo: there were 15 staff, all paid, who help provide free meals for 120 people as well as a social space, internet access and help looking for jobs from 7am to 4pm. I was surprised to find that it wasn´t possible for people to sleep here, but thinking about it it does make at least a degree of sense. Whilst São Paulo does get a bit nippy (we ourselves have been feeling the difference from Rio, the Southerners especially!) it is not life threatening temperatures at night, and as the organisation is funded by the municipality (state) they obviously don´t see this as a priority. Though there are many other shelters which do offer beds at night, I still see a lot of people bedding down for the night in the streets when i walk the mile or two home, probably 6 or 7 times the amount I would see in Preston in a walk of a similar distance. Instead of providing beds for the night, the objectives of this centre seem to be social: allowing homeless people a space in which to meet people and make friends, allowing free shower and clothes-washing facilities, and rehabilitation: internet access for job hunting, classes in craft so people can generate their own sources of income are the kind of things that go on here.
It was surprising, then, to hear that 80% of the people who attend the shelter simply do not want to be rehabilitated. They are happier on the streets, and it also surprised me to hear that a lot of the homelessness is optional. Be this younger people who can´t live with the limits of home life and would rather cut their cloth on the street, or homosexuals who are kicked out of home. There is a lot of stigma against homosexuality in Brazil as I have mentioned before, not at all confined to religion: we have been warned by people on the trip "be careful going down that street, there are lots of gays" or similar. Mainstream society seems to genuinely believe that gays and transvestites are dirty, dangerous or what have you. Adults too are reluctant to go through the steps of rehabilitation. There are similar reasons for this to the younger homeless people- they don´t want to have a job, have to answer to a boss etc., and there is also the fact that the minimum wage here in Brazil is so low- R$500 (about 180 pounds) per month, and the cost of living is only very marginally if at all lower, in the central area where I´m staying it is higher than where I live in the UK. It is apparently easy to make more money begging on the street, and of course possible to make that much in even a single mugging.
We had a really good debate when we got back to CSL about what we´d seen, all of it was really constructive and a lot of it is included in this blog... so... errr... not all my own work. Mainly there was the issue of globalisation and whether it has effected the levels of poverty in São Paulo. Most people seemed to think there was a link but I wasn´t so sure. With the minimum wage here being so low there is not a large influx of foreign workers that displace locals from jobs as in parts of the UK, if anything industrialisation is more to blame, as farming jobs are lost to machines people flock to the city for work. Globalisation has the potential to at least partly reverse this as Brazil has plenty of fertile land that will be worked more intensively as world demand for food and other arable products rises, and also as the number of tourism jobs in Brazils undeniably splendid beach towns/cities and the Amazon rainforest increases.
I think that a certain level of homelessness will always be synomynous with big cities- the 18million-strong São Paulo (bigger, depending on how you count) is a prime example of this. As Brazil is a less developed country than the UK there will obviously be higher levels of homelessness due to the government having less money to spend on a benefits system, council houses, homeless shelters etc. I also think being warmer will have an effect- is the depths of winter and temperatures in Rio were not going below the high teens at night, making shelter a bit less of an issue for survival. I think there are links to globalisation, such as jobs coming from abroad into cities attracting more people than are needed to fill them which will create unemployment and raise house prices, but these links are I believe too tenuous to deserve attributing the whole complex problem of homelessness to globalisation.
And then the afternoon, like I say a big contrast- which I think is well organised even if coincidental- to Universidade de São Paulo, the University of São Paulo. We waved at Shyam and his host Naara's house on the way past! This is a public university, and in reverse of the pattern with schools, public universities are better than private ones in Brazil. USP is infact commonly acknowledged as the best university in Latin America and is consistently ranked among the top 200 in the world, as high as 32nd in one study. The obvious unfairness in the public University programme is that the places go to people who can afford to pay for University- to get a good enough grade to make it you will have almost certainly needed private education as well as extra tuition outside of school. There are just 7,000 places per year at USP to share between 115,000 applicants, and entry is given based on a single (mammoth) test on a single day- futures are decided in the space of just 5 hours.
In an attempt to get more poorer people into universities, the government is bringing in quotas, but as I understand (I may be wrong) it these will only work on race. The majority of university goers are white, as white people in Brazil are to put it bluntly richer- I've noticed this at São Luis with the majority (this is more true with day students, who pay) of students being white. However I don´t think this´ll effectively tackle the problem.
Say (these are not real numbers) there are 100 university places. 90 are taken by white Brazilians, 2 by Yellow Brazilians and 8 by black Brazilians. The government brings in a positive discrimination quota that says 5% of uni students must be yellow and 10% black, minimum. 5 white students with scores that would formerly have gotten them a place in the university now miss out, but 2 extra black and 3 extra yellows students with scores that wouldn´t have got them in before the bill get places. If these people were coming from poor backgrounds then there is at least a small justification for this racism (no need to dress it up), but if, as i suspect, the extra black and yellow students are coming from affluent backgrounds anyway then nothing is gained. Although there are more rich white people and I hope this changes within the country, there are more than enough rich black and ´yellow´ (as northeastern Brazilians and Central Asians are known here) people to fill the university places. The effect will be rich people still getting the places, and social mobility not being improved, but some cleverer students being turned away in favour of still very clever, but not as clever black or yellow students, purely on the basis of their skin colour, to the detriment of both interracial relations and the economy.
Like I say I may be wrong and this may be done on a public/private school quota, but even this would have flaws. As in Britain some public schools are better than others, and with the level of corruption in Brazil i can see the middle classes infiltrating the best public schools and thus gaining the less competetive quota university places with relative ease. So how do the government here, and governments across the world as this is an issue in many countries, address this?
That, avid readers, is the million dollar question ;)